图片源于：https://www.theguardian.com/travel/2023/dec/13/bravo-toulouse-french-france-music-food-cuisine-concerts
The rubbish comes from rhythms, and the rubbish turns into tunes. At La Halle de la Machine in Toulouse, I watched Ignazio Elera, a staff member at La Halle, making music from recycled waste. The space, which is located in the Montaudran southern area, is most famous for its giant animated Minotaur Astérios and its equally massive spider companion Ariane. However, the exhibits showcased by the staff also included a temporary orchestra: an old band transformed into an organ, giant windmills filled with discarded guitars, a series of damaged drumsticks, and an accordion powered by a device controlled by a previous windshield wiper controller. All this cleverness, innovation, and creativity are fascinating – music and engineering harmoniously blend together, which could have made a hit for Robinson Crusoe.
Toulouse has always been a city of boundary-breaking: La Halle de la Machine is adjacent to the L’Envol des Pionniers museum, showcasing early French aviation, located three miles away from the space-themed Cité de l’Espace science museum. Since October 31, Toulouse has officially become a UNESCO designated city of music, recognizing Toulouse’s outstanding musical institutions, music education, and music festivals.
Music is part of the DNA of this city, much like the medieval Counts of Toulouse generously sponsoring troubadours who provided medieval music. The City Hall, although sharing space with the National Theater and Opera House (in this case the National Capitol), does not have many places, but that is what happens behind the pink neoclassical façade of Toulouse’s most grand landmark, the National Congress building. During my visit, the Christmas market was in full swing, with elegant arcades covering Capitole Square filled with shiny white wooden huts, the smell of mulled wine wafting in the air, and stalls selling sticky sticky sticky sticky sticky sticky garlic mashed potatoes, a signature dish from the unsophisticated Lavendou region.
At the Capitol Theater, I enjoyed a stunning performance of Monteverdi’s “Ulysses Returning” by Gemelliensemble I, based in Toulouse. This was the last performance to be staged, but there are plenty of rich opera, classical music, and ballet shows to enjoy at the theater. As the baroque opera echoed in my ears, I strolled to the student area near one of Toulouse’s three universities. The cloisters of the Gothic Jacobin Monastery created an ambiance for the concert, including the Jacobin Piano Festival and the Toulouse Music Conservatory, which is nurturing the next generation of musicians.
I viewed images on fullscreen electronic devices outside La Halle de la Machine with full-screen Dragon and spider animations. Photo: Alamy
As I reached Saint-Pierre Square near the Garonne River, I confidently entered the student area. I do not know why Le Saints des Seins bar calls itself the “Breast Saints,” but it is popular for its live music and DJ performances. A few minutes later, the atmosphere at Flashback Café would be slightly more adult. DayGlo’s interior is adorned with colorful inflatable sofas, giant screens for gamers, and a stage for live bands and DJs, adding sparkle to the chilly December nights. I regret not attending the themed night of “ugly sweater, beard, and mullet.” I also did not have time to continue along the river to Le Taquin jazz club, a private space that hosts local and international jazz musicians, funk, and world music artists.
At the full-screen Hotel Les Capitouls, check out the pictures… “It’s not common to walk into a hotel lobby and see posters of Joy Division, New Order.” Photo: Laplanche Arnaud
Two of my favorite cultural institutions in Toulouse – the Bemberg Foundation and the Augustin Museum’s art galleries – have closed for refurbishment, with the former to continue until February and the latter possibly reopening by the end of 2025.
I stayed at one of Toulouse’s newest boutique hotels, the centrally located Hotel Les Capitouls. It’s not common to walk into a hotel lobby and see posters of Joy Division, New Order, Stone Roses, and Hacienda nightclub, but the 1980s and 1990s Manchester story inspired the hotel’s French designer Thierry Destreya to pay tribute. In addition to posters, cassette tapes and other musical instruments have been turned into artworks in the rooms and public areas. They even named the bar Le Wilson, although I expected it to be more related to the nearby Wilson Square than to the uniquely Tony of Manchester music.
Le Taquin jazz club is a private space that hosts local and international jazz musicians, funk, and world music artists
Toulouse’s recent addition to the cultural and gastronomic scene opened in September at La Cartoucherie, an ecological area near the 11,000-capacity music venue Toulouse Metropolitan Zenith. Les Halles de la Cartoucherie emerged from the ruins of a former ammunition factory and has now become a honey pot. Les Halles proudly showcases its industrial heritage, serving as a food hall (offering everything from Casoulet to West African cuisine, as well as a butcher shop and food store), part co-working space, part fitness center (including squash courts, gym, and climbing center) offering classes and workshops. In the spring, its super modern music venue will open for concerts and cultural performances.
Dine at a table of people packed with dishes such as Peruvian ceviche marinated in lime juice, Sri Lankan curry, and Lebanese snacks, and this formula evidently works. Eating well in Toulouse is easy and a pleasure. A few years ago, as I strolled through the Victor Hugo food market, I recalled why I fell in love with Toulouse – it is one of France’s largest covered markets and a place to find the best produce from southwestern France. I couldn’t resist the stalls selling local cheeses, including Roquefort, sheep’s milk cheese, and Cantal cheese.
View performances at the Garonne River in fullscreen. Photo: Rémi Deligeon
The displayed delicatessen reminded me of an earlier visit when Taste of Toulouse’s Jessica Hammer took me on a tour of wine bars, one highlight being the cured ham and cheese platter tasted at Maison Sarment. Oh, and of course, wine, including the underrated Côtes de Gascogne and Gaillac, typical wines of the southwestern region. Hammer, a wine expert, and former cheese-monger from Michigan fell in love with Toulouse six years ago and never looked back. In a place so full of life and surrounded by such rich beauty, it’s hard not to be drawn to Toulouse’s “Southern Song.”
This trip was provided by the Toulouse Tourism Bureau. The Hotel Les Capitouls offers double rooms (room only) starting at €159.
